Replacing bayliner windows

Which it did. That will also cause cracks. Hopefully the has a similar design to the which had a metal frame around the entire window.

No holes needed in the plexiglass. I also used black boatlife marine caulk along the top and bottom of the window before the re-install of the frame work. What type of 2 way tape did you use? I found the glazing tape on line same type used in automobiles. My has a black metal frame that is screwed to the cabin. Is the glass each side in one piece? What is the thickness? Mine was in several pieces. Can these windows be made and installed in one piece using the originals as templates?

Having mine done now Ciera has a black metal frame around a 2 piece window. Ron at the shop was great. Same tint and same thickness. We have decided to make it one window instead of 2 made to look like one. Do I need to caulk the trim area as well? Thanks in advance for the help. What kind of 2-sided tape?

Is it the thick foam tape, or the thin? Glazing tape, right??? Hi itsabowtime2, What can you tell me about how to remove the aluminum trim around the window? Merely type in a quick detail related to the product inside the search box and we will peruse lots of items within our data store. We are guaranteed to uncover precisely the things you are seeking and so much more!

Toggle navigation. If the hatch ever starts leaking again, all you have to do is again retighten the screws and this should stop the leak. This is because you can continue to tighten the frame against the semi-soft caulking which is really now a gasket. Now, place shims under the bottom edge of the glass from the exterior.

We do not want the glass resting on the bottom of the frame because if the frame moves, it will also move the glass, so shim it up so the glass is approximately centered in the frame, not touching on any side. Allow the bedding to set up overnight before you go back and apply the final glazing to the exterior. If there are snap-in exterior moldings, wait a day before putting those back in so that you don't disturb the positioning. After the bedding has cured, you can now trim the excess on the interior, or finish with the exterior glazing.

To trim, hold the razon blade at an angle about 30 degrees off of vertical and cut at this angle all the way around.

Then finish up by trimming the horizontal surface, separating the bedding from the glass just up to the point of the vertical cut. Have a supply of blades because the glass will dull them quickly and they will not cut cleanly when dull. If you do not have exterior moldings to install, use your bedding to finish up the glazing.

To get a nice smooth surface, use a NEW chrome plated putty knife sprayed with silicone to prevent sticking. Don't try to remove all the excess, just get the glazing part smooth.

You can trim the excess with a razor after it sets, which is very easy to do. What you have done here is to create sort of a free-floating window pane. The soft bedding will allow considerable movement without breaking the seal so that future leakage will be eliminated, or at least greatly reduced.

This method works not only for windows, but for portholes and deck hatches as well, or any place a more rigid frame is mounted to a flexing hull or deck surface. Note: Most windows have a two-part frame, the outer frame which is the major part, and the inner which is more or less just a trim bezel. Even so, that trim bezel probably plays a major role in the sealing process, so the inner part needs to be removed and rebedded as well.

However, you don't need to shim it when reinstalling. Then go back and retorque the fasteners to make it a little tighter.

Usually leak because the deck flexes somewhat, breaking the caulking seal. The remedy for this - as long as the deck doesn't flex too much - is the same as for the window glass described above. Again, the trick is to make the bedding layer thick enough so that it can be torqued down like a gasket.

Pulling that hatch frame down tight was what created the problem in the first place, so once again use shims on the preliminary reinstallation.

Then go back and retorque after the bedding cures. This is a combination that will never stop leaking in Florida or the Gulf coast simply because the black absorbs too much heat from the sun and the rate of expansion is too high to permit a seal. David Pascoe is a second generation marine surveyor in his family who began his surveying career at age 16 as an apprentice in as the era of wooden boats was drawing to a close.

Certified by the National Association of Marine Surveyors in , he has conducted over 5, pre purchase surveys in addition to having conducted hundreds of boating accident investigations, including fires, sinkings, hull failures and machinery failure analysis.

Over forty years of knowledge and experience are brought to bear in following books. David Pascoe is the author of:. In addition to readers in the United States, boaters and boat industry professionals worldwide from nearly 80 countries have purchased David Pascoe's books, since introduction of his first book in Published by: D.

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